Angel with No Job

by Kristin Morrison on April 14, 2010

in Bali,Friendship,Gratitude,Letting Love In,Travel

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On Monday Wayan picked me up to go visit the orphanage in Bali that had I visited in February. I had some gifts I wanted to give the kids.

“How you doing, Kristeen?” Wayan asked.

“I’m a little sad today. I just found out I definitely have to go home on May 9. My work needs me in a few weeks so I can’t extend my trip beyond May 9 like I thought. I’m feeling sad about going back to America,” I complained.

“What? You think you angel with no job?” Wayan looked at me and snorted with laughter.

“Huh?”

“You think, Kristeen, that you can just do the spa, massage, eat food in restaurants, do the yoga, the rest of your whole life? You think you just can fly around with no job to do? You think you the special angel with no job? Come on Kristeen! I no feel sorry for you.”

He balled up his fist and pretended to cry. ” ‘WAH! WAH! WAH!’ goes the little baby,” he wailed.

He smiled at me as we turned a corner.

Darn.

I wanted violin serenades of pity from him and instead he was now shaking his head at me in amusement.

“You like a battery,” Wayan said.

“What are you talking about Wayan?!” I asked, a bit miffed that he was not more sympathetic.

“It is simple. You like a battery. You go to America, do the work. I understand it hard in America, Kristeen. Everyone so busy. Very fast-paced is the life there in America. Not like in Bali. I understand. You working very hard in America. But now you have the Bali to help you. Bali will recharge you. You work for 8, 9, 10 months in America and then spend the rest of the year in Bali. You the battery. Bali is battery charger. Bali will always be here for you, Kristeen. Not going anywhere. I will be here too.”

This man.

I look at him and smile.

He really is my teacher. Thank you God, thank you God, thank you God for Wayan. He’s the BEST.

We drive to the orphanage and on the way I see rolling, gorgeous layers of rice fields, men cutting grass with big machetes, women carrying everything on their heads: cement blocks, buckets of dirt, baskets of fruit.

I can feel my premeditative sadness at leaving Bali in less than a month melting away as we drive along the road.

I still have nearly a month. I don’t want to waste any time mourning leaving Bali while I’m still here. That’s crazy.

We visit the orphanage and play with the kids for a couple of hours. They are pure and utter sweetness.

Wayan drives me home and I’m noticing how awkward it is to talk about money for his taxi rides now that were are friends. Of course I want to pay him and am anticipating paying him, it’s just that talking about it and coming to a price is uncomfortable for us both, I think.  I’ve hired him to drive me to the orphanage and we are almost back to my bungalow.

I muster up the courage to put a voice to the very large elephant that is riding with us in the car.

“How much do I owe you, Wayan?”

He’s quiet.

The silence is awkward and a bit embarrassing.

Then he parks in front of my bungalow entrance and turns to me.

“Kristeen, you no have to pay anymore. I take you where you want to go. You family now. You like my sister. The nieces, they think you family too: Ina, she calls you Auntie Kristeen and Inda, she calls you Auntie Kristeen. My sister-in-law think you family also. You don’t pay. Today we go to the, how-you-say-it?”

“Orphanage,” I can barely sputter out the word. I’m getting choked up. He feels like family to me and has since I arrived back in Bali but it is the first time he’s said it.

I’ve been calling him my SoulBrother in emails to my friends and last week I found out that his birthday is May 14, the same day as my ‘real’ brother Ezra’s birthday.

“Yes, we go to the orphanage today and you don’t have to pay because you family now. I take you where you want to go. No charge for you, Kristeen.”

I put 200,000 rupiah ($20) on his dashboard and smile.

“Yes, we are family and I’m still going to pay you,” I say.

We look at each other and grin big, wide smiles and I shut the door and he drives off.

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Snapshots of India

by Kristin Morrison on April 9, 2010

in India

Train ride with girl I made friends with (although it doesn't look like here!)

Train ride with girl I made friends with (although it doesn't look like here!)

Germany Bakery: day after the bombing

Germany Bakery: day after the bombing

Paradise in India: Arambol Beach (Goa)

Paradise in India: Arambol Beach (Goa)

Holy cow (on beach)

Holy cow (on beach)

Gorgeous Hampi

Gorgeous Hampi

Me and the Spanish girls I met at the top of the 573 steps

Me and the Spanish girls I met at the top of the 573 steps

Krishna and Baba in the Hanuman Temple

Krishna and Baba in the Hanuman Temple

Sadhu hut where I first met Krishna

Sadhu hut where I first met Krishna

Me with little Indian cutie

Me with little Indian cutie

Cynthia, Krishna, and me in the cave below Hanuman Temple

Cynthia, Krishna, and me in the cave below Hanuman Temple

After puja

After puja

Me with adorable Indian girl

Me with adorable Indian girl

(Dead) scorpion outside of my hut door

(Dead) scorpion outside of my hut door

Peter's camel

Peter's camel

Red Beauty

Red Beauty

Crowded Smiles

Crowded Smiles

Dyanyavaad India

Dyanyavaad India

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Bali: A Thousand Words

by Kristin Morrison on April 9, 2010

in Bali

Leaving America...

Leaving America...

Wayan and 'Kristeen'

Wayan and 'Kristeen'

Even the snails are beautiful in Bali...

Even the snails are beautiful in Bali...

Me and the lovely hotel staff in Bali

Me and the lovely hotel staff in Bali

Eggs

Eggs

Dragon Cloud

Dragon Cloud

Ganesh

Ganesh

Full Moon Ceremony with one of Wayan's many relatives

Full Moon Ceremony with one of Wayan's many relatives

4 on a motorbike: the ride home from Full Moon Ceremony

4 on a motorbike: the ride home from Full Moon Ceremony

Buddha in the Nook

Buddha in the Nook

Dancer

Dancer

 Wayan and Kristeen

Wayan and Kristeen

Beauty abounds

Beauty abounds

Gorgeous -but too isolated- villa

Gorgeous -but too isolated- villa

Flower Bath

Flower Bath

With Wayan's family

With Wayan's family

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Balinese Healers

by Kristin Morrison on April 6, 2010

in Bali,Inspiring People,Life as a Grand Adventure,Travel

Wayan has been busy for the past week driving a taxi for the local Bali Spirit Festival.

Not having Wayan to hang out with has given me the opportunity to meet lots of other people in Bali.

I’m convinced that Bali (and specifically the town of Ubud) is possibly the best place in the world to travel as a single person.

I’ve met so many people while simply walking down the street, at the many mouth-watering restaurants, and at the various accommodations I’ve stayed in.

For the record: I’m now at a humble, quiet room with a great view of the Sacred Monkey Forest after moving from Rooster/Frog Central and then to a quiet and gorgeous -but too isolated- villa).

Yes, there really are monkeys here and the hotel staff gave me a slingshot with my room key to protect me against the sometimes-aggressive beasts.

I’m not kidding.

But getting back to meeting people: I’m convinced that there is a magic here in Bali that, if one is open to it, will suck you in and leave you speechless and often feeling more amazed than maybe you’ve ever been in your entire life.

At least that’s been my experience.

When I was in Ubud in February (before I left to go to India) I went to a restaurant and had a Balinese guy approach me and asked me the typical questions Balinese people ask:

Where you from?

Where in America?

Do you like Bali?

etc, etc, etc.

I responded: America, California, I love, love, love Bali, etc., etc.

This particular guy then said something that reminded me of something Wayan would say to me:

“You’ve got a big smile on your face but your eyes are sad. Is everything okay?”

Wow.

I told him how I’d had food poisoning the night before and had been up most of the night.

He told me his name was Ketut and he knew of a Balinese healer who could help me. Did I want to see his healer?

I sized up this guy and checked my gut and my gut said yes.

Next thing I know we were on his motorbike zipping up the mountain.

Ketut on his motorbike.

Ketut on his motorbike.

We arrived at a typical Balinese compound with small houses all around. The healer’s wife said he was not there yet. My ‘taxi driver’ Ketut called the healer to see where he was.

I couldn’t understand what he said but Ketut’s eyes got wider and wider and he looked at me and smiled while speaking in Indonesian to the healer.

When Ketut got off the phone I asked what his healer had told him.

“He said that he left an hour ago because he knew an American needed him this afternoon.”

“Wait a minute, Ketut. An hour ago?  I just met you a half hour ago.”

“I know, my healer can see what comes ahead.”

What the hell?

His face shined with the truth and I can usually detect bull from a mile away but I just couldn’t believe that the healer had actually known that I’d be coming before I even knew I’d be coming.

That was just too weird.

I looked around and there were Balinese people who were obviously ahead of me in line for the healer. One woman had a split-open big toe that was the size of three normal big toes.

I looked at her and said, “Owie. You poor thing.”

She smiled shyly at me and pointed dejectedly at her oversized toe and frowned in pain.

The healer arrived a few minutes later. He said hello to me in Indonesian and gave me a little bow. I did the same back to him.

Then he called his assistant over, a Balinese woman about my age named Made (pronounced ‘Maw-day’), and turned his attention to the woman with the split toe while I watched and waited my turn.

He touched her legs below the knees and moved his hands around above (not on) her hurt toe, then he applied oil on her toe (“powerful oil, made by healer” Ketut told me). After the oil, he crushed green leaves in his hand and put them directly in her wound while the woman winced in pain. Made held her shoulders and massaged her while the healer worked on her toe.

After about thirty minutes he was finished with her and it was my turn.

“What is your problem?” Ketut interpreted what the healer asked me.

“I had food poisoning. I’ve also been feeling a little bit off emotionally since I ate the bad shrimp. I don’t know how to explain it, but I’m just not feeling quite myself.”

“You come in here to private room, Made will come too,” he said.

So all four of us went into his little healing room: me, Ketut, Made and the healer.

“This room for emotional ailments. We help the physical outside,” the healer told me.

After anointing me with holy oil and then holy water he began chanting. When he got quiet Made began singing a beautiful song. She lit incense and waved it around. And then she told the priest what she ‘saw’ was going on for me in my life and the priest told my interpreter and my interpreter told me.

It was a little cumbersome as far as communicating goes but I understood.

What was said to me was pretty personal otherwise I’d share it here.

Some of the things she said were so spot on they made me gasp with recognition.

After they finished with my ’emotional healing’ we went outside for my healing from food poisoning.

The healer crushed up a small shallot (onion) and mixed it with some oil and put the mixture it in my belly button with a Band-Aid to hold it all in. “You feel better in 15 minutes.”

He was wrong.

I felt better in about 1o minutes.

And when I used the onion in the belly button for one of my food poisoning bouts in India (when I could find a shallot and some oil), it worked for me then, too.

The healer told me he would like to teach me Kundalini Meditation. He told me it would help me to have more life energy. Would I like to learn?

“Yes, when I come back to Bali after India I would like to learn,” I told him.

And I will. Visiting this healer named Gusti to learn Kundalini Meditation is on my list of “Things to Do While in Bali”.

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Made, me, and Gusti after my 'healing'

Made, me, and Gusti after my 'healing'

So when my new friend Heiner asked me if I’d like to see a Balinese healer I said yes without hesitation.

I met Heiner the night after I arrived in Bali for the second time in March.

I felt inexplicably drawn that night to go to Sari Organic, a restaurant that is a 20-minute walk through ricefields. I met Heiner at Sari Organic that night and we found out that we’d arrived from India on the same day and nearly the same time (8:10pm). We had lots to talk about (India, Bali, spirituality, etc). and still do.

He’s easy to be with and so interesting to talk to.

Originally from Germany, Heiner now lives part of the year in Bali and part of the year in India.

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He just completed the building of his beautiful home in Bali and I’ve enjoyed two dinners there since we met a couple of weeks ago.

Here’s the driveway leading up to Heiner’s house (accessible only by motorbike):

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And his open-air dining room perched on the edge of the river:

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Such a gorgeous, relaxing spot.

And just one shot of his home that hovers over Kovalam Beach in India because this blog post is not about houses; it is about Balinese healers.

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When Heiner asked me if I wanted to go to the Balinese healer I asked how he had heard about the particular healer.

He told me that his friend Susan had been going to this healer for years and that he himself had experienced deep healing as a result of working with him in years past.

“I’m a cynic by nature and this healer, Tjorkorda Rai, is the real thing.”

So Heiner, his friend Susan and I drove to see the healer yesterday.

We sat down on the outside seating area where Tjorkorda Rai was finishing up with a Balinese woman who was lying down on a mat in front of us.

“She’s nauseated. She’s been sick for awhile,” Susan interpreted.

After Rai finished with her he worked on Heiner who winced in pain while Rai fiddled around with his toes which is one of the ways Rai can diagnosis physical and emotional ailments.

After he was finished working on Heiner and prescribed treatment to remedy his situation Susan turned to me and said, “Do you want to get a healing?”

“Yes, definitely,” I replied.

80-year-old Balinese healer/shaman Tjokorda Rai

80-year-old Balinese healer/shaman Tjokorda Rai

As Rai got ready for me I told Susan why I wanted a healing. “I’ve been really snappy with people lately. I’m not sure what is going on but I’ve had these little bursts of anger lately. Others listening to me being snappy might not think my being snappy is a big deal because it’s not like I’m flying off the handle…”

“But it doesn’t feel good to you,” Susan finished.

“Exactly,” I agreed. ” And also I haven’t really been sleeping well lately so I’m feeling a bit run down.”

I sat down in front of Rai and leaned against his legs. He put his hands on my head, over my eyelids, then next to my nostrils and pressed, then his fingers moved over my mouth, to my jaw and then he pressed my temples.

“OW!” I yelled.

“Tension,” Rai said in English.

“Yes,” I agreed.

“Lie down,” he said, pointing to the mat that Heiner had just been laying on.

Then he got a little wooden stick about half the size of a pencil and pressed it against different sections on the bottom of my toes. I couldn’t feel anything until “OW!”

He had pressed at the bottom of my one of my toes and it hurt like hell.

“Spleen,” he said.

I looked at Susan and Heiner in amazement and said, “Wow, my spleen. That’s what my acupuncturist always says is my problem when I come in for treatments.”

Susan looked at me and smiled knowingly. She’s brought many people to Rai.

“Rai says your energy is blocked there,” Susan interpreted.

Back down goes my head and Rai continues pressing his little stick until he gets me to another sore spot.

“OW!” It’s like no pain I’ve ever felt before. It’s horrible. I want it to stop.

“Breathe into the pain,” says Susan. “Your energy is blocked which is why it hurts. If you breathe into the pain you will feel better.”

How do I breathe into the pain when I want to jump out of my skin? At one point I nearly kick Rai in my reflective attempt to get him to stop pushing my toe with his little stick. This procedure lasted for about 5 minutes. He’d press certain areas on the bottom of my toes and I’d feel nothing but then there would be a spot that hurt like hell and I would beg him to stop.

He would let up for a moment but then he’d press it again.

Then it was over.

Thank God.

Then he began ‘drawing’ lightly on my body with his stick.

“He’s drawing mandalas on you to balance your energy,” Susan said.

That part felt good.

But then he reached for my toes with his stick in hand and I impulsively moved my toes away and said, “Oh please no, not again!” but he put his stick to the spots on my toes that previously had hurt.

No pain.

He said something to Susan in Indonesian.

“Harmony is restored. Your energy is now balanced,” Susan said.

And it was.

My sight was clearer, colors appeared more vivid, I felt (and continue to feel) very grounded.

Then Rai began talking in Indonesian and Susan interpreted once again.

“He says that one of the reasons you got imbalanced is that you’ve lost your passion. You need to find that inner fire within. Something that fills you with ecstasy. And not in the form of a pill.”

We all laugh: Me, Heiner, Susan, Rai.

“He’s talking about ecstacy from within. He says you have a beautiful life…”

“I do! Absolutely. I do have a beautiful life,” I nod in agreement.

“But you’ve gotten out of balance and have lost your passion.”

“How interesting,” I said, looking at Susan. “Passion…the flip side of passion is anger, isn’t it? And I’ve been feeling these little bursts of anger lately,” I mused.

“Yes, that’s what I was thinking when he mentioned passion. If you don’t find and channel that inner passion it can come out as anger,” Susan replied. “This healing that he has given you will restore your energy for some time but he says it would be good for you to do Yoga Nidra to keep up the balanced feeling. Do you know what Yoga Nidra is?”

“No,” I replied.

“Well, his student teaches it. It will help relax your tension. And Rai said it may help you find your passion. His student’s name is Linda Madani and her yoga studio is in Ubud.”

(This was the 5th time in one week that I’d heard about Linda Madani!)

This morning I went to Linda’s 9am yoga class.

It was the best yoga class I’ve ever taken. I fell asleep during the Yoga Nidra part.

When I woke up I felt so refreshed.

I bought a 15-class pass to her classes to save some money and also to commit myself to going as much as possible.

After we visited the healer, Heiner, Susan and I went out for coffee and discussed passion: the different forms it takes and how having it or not having it impacts our lives.

Susan and I talked about how being passionate about a romantic partner is not quite the kind of passion we think Rai had in mind when he talked about my needing to discover my passion.

And I have been passionate about my life at various times: about creative business ideas I’ve had and that I’ve implemented, planting and growing my veggie garden, riding my bike and hiking on my beloved trail, hanging out in my hot tub,  journal writing in the morning and more recently, writing in this blog.

And I’m definitely passionate about Bali: its people, its natural, lush beauty, its culture, its peaceful Hinduism.

A few days before I went to the healer Rai I was contemplating what gives my life meaning. What is truly soulful in my life? What isn’t? Yes, my relationships are number one in my life. Absolutely. But what else gives me passion?

Having stepped away from the routine of my life, from all I know in America, for a period of time, is a potent opportunity to put out these deep life questions and possibly find the answers. All the usual life obligations and to do lists are not here and these things often get in the way of deep contemplation.

I will keep my senses open for other passions that want to emerge.

Keeping the senses open is so easy in Bali.




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Comfy (with Caveats)

by Kristin Morrison on March 31, 2010

in Bali,Being in the Darkness,Letting Go,Travel

Arjana Bungalow #3

Arjana Bungalow #3

Friends, family and other honorable readers:

Meet my new home in Ubud, Bali.

Room #3 at Arjana Bungalows.

It might not look like much on the outside but wow, what a view! This is the view from my bedroom:

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And this is the view from the bathroom:

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I love that I can’t see anything but nature from all of my windows.

It’s blissful. And only $15/night which includes tax and breakfast. Nice people who clean my room daily. A pool to swim in.

It feels so good being in Bali that I’ve decided to return to the States a month later than I’d originally decided to come back.

Yay!

I’ll be back in mid-May instead of mid-April.

Wow, what a treat to get to stay longer in this luscious place.

So I’ve begun setting up the makings of home since I’ll be here awhile.

I got a Balinese cell phone number so the many travelers (and locals) that I’ve already met in Bali can call me.

I rented a bicycle for $1 a day:

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I even have a local Balinese cat who has taken to sitting on my porch and greeting me when I arrive back home after a night (or day) out on the town:

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I’ve unloaded my backpack which felt so delicious after not putting anything in drawers for the past two months since I didn’t stay in any place longer than one week.

But this time I decided to plant myself. I put my stuff in the armoire which is near where I’m taking this photo of my room (so you can’t see the armoire in this photo):

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I’m all moved in. Happy as can be.

I decide to have a candle-lit bath in my sunken tub with its great view to celebrate my good fortune in finding this inexpensive, special spot.

I go to sleep with a smile on my face.

I’m looking forward to sleeping in

but…

I wake up at 6am because of this:

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When I moved in to the bungalow I asked the staff if there were roosters around. In fact, I even made the rooster crowing sound (R-R-R-R!) to make sure all the barriers to language misunderstandings were gone.

“No, no rooster.”

“You sure? No R-R-R-R?”

“Yes, sure. No rooster here.”

“Cool.” And so I unpacked. And have been waking up at 6am ever since.

I don’t think the hotel staff intentionally lied. My experience of Balinese people is that they are very honest. I think Balinese people just don’t hear the roosters anymore because they are everywhere.

Last night we had a wild thunder and lightning storm. It lasted for 2 hours and was intense. Loud, loud booming sounds from the thunder! Every few minutes there would be flashes of lightning that held solid for 15 seconds, lighting up my darkened room.

I loved it.

I didn’t love what came after it though.

About 15 minutes after the storm subsided the sound of frogs was everywhere. Rivet. Rivet. Rivet.

Before storm: no frogs.

After storm: millions of frog families making loud rivet sounds all around the outside of my bungalow.

Which was fine and sort of charming.

Except. There was one frog that sounded nothing like a frog. He sounded like a machine gun.

I swear.

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

went this particular vocally-challenged frog.

All night long.

At one point (I think it was 2am) I threw a sarong around me and picked up my flashlight to see if I could find him. I grabbed a useless candle that I’d bought the night before whose wick couldn’t be lit for some reason.  I thought I could throw this candle near him and maybe he would hop away toward someone else’s bungalow.

So there I am, in the dark, trying to figure out where Machine Gun George is.

But he’s quiet. It’s almost like he knows I’m looking for him.

All the other normal frogs are making their normal rivets and the Sleep Disturber is totally and utterly quiet.

I wait.

And wait.

No sound.

I sigh and go back into the bungalow and back into bed.

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

“AGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!” I yell.

‘Frog I’m going to get you!’

Put sarong on. Flashlight in right hand, candle in left. I open the door to my bungalow.

Quiet.

Quiet.

Quiet.

Quiet.

Wait 3 minutes.

Quiet.

Close door. Put down flashlight and candle. Get back in bed.

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

“SH*T!!!!! Frog! I’m going to get you!” I yell. (My poor neighbor in #4 bungalow. It’s now 2:20am.)

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

“FROG! You are going to get a candle on your machine gun head!”

I swing a sarong around me. Again. Grab the flashlight. Again. Pick up the candle. Again.

I open the door. Again.

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

Cool, he’s still going. I can hear that he’s in the back of the bungalow, not the front.

At least I know which direction he’s in.

I walk through wet weeds along the left side of my bungalow to get to the back where HE is. Brambles grab at my ankles. I’m cursing the frog under my breath.

He’s still happily doing his machine gun mating call (or whatever the heck that sound is).

I pick up the candle and hurl it in his direction. It comes bouncing down at my feet.

What the heck?

I shine the flashlight up and see that it must have hit the barbed wire fence separating my bungalow from the rice field behind where The Frog is happily rata-tatting away.

Damn frog.

I want to kill him.

It’s a good thing there is a barbed wire fence separating us or I would find my way into the rice fields and who knows what would happen to The Frog.

I realize that I only have one candle–there really is nothing else to throw at him. No stones around, nothing in my room. So I have one shot to get a good night’s sleep.

I move the flashlight to my left and the candle to my right throwing hand.

Pressure.

I hurl the candle over.

Plop.

It lands in the wet rice field.

The frog sounds including The Sound From Hell instantly stop.

Quiet.

Quiet.

Quiet.

Quiet.

I walk into my bungalow, set the flashlight down and go to bed.

Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT-Ratta-TAT!!!!!!!!

“AGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!”

(Again, my poor neighbor in #4. I am making more noise with my groaning than The Fricken Frog but really I can’t help myself.)

Somehow I get to sleep. Don’t ask me how. It was like experiencing chinese water torture in my ears every three minutes.

Then at 6am I dream that roosters are taking over the world. They are everywhere.

But then I wake up and it is reality (at least in Bali):

‘R-R-R-R-R!’ goes the rooster.

I walk out to see where this rooster is. Perhaps if I can see the rooster for myself I can figure something out. Maybe I can ask his owner to move him away from bungalow #3?

Something.

I peer over the wall where the sound is obviously coming from.

I see a Balinese man, in his twenties, feeding the rooster by hand. The rooster eats out of his hand and then cocks his head and looks at his owner and then crows again. Right after the rooster crows the Balinese man feeds him. This Balinese man is obviously teaching his beloved rooster to crow. At 6 in the morning.

Though I don’t like how this ‘Balinese rooster training’ wakes me up in the morning, I have to admit: watching the way this man and his bird are interacting is pretty darn cute.

So I walk back to my beautiful bungalow, have some tea and go to the 7:30am yoga class down the street.

Which I never would have done had the rooster not begun his crowing at 6am.

I may begin to get used the ever-present Balinese roosters.

But I hope to God I never hear Machine Gun George again.

He’ll be sorry if I do.

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Home Sweet Bali

by Kristin Morrison on March 25, 2010

in Bali,Contentment,Friendship,Inspiring People,Letting Love In

After three plane rides and as many layovers I arrived in Bali late last night.

Before I left to go to India in February, I’d arranged for Wayan to pick me up when I returned in late March. Because I wasn’t able to call him from India to confirm I wondered if he’d remember and be there to pick me up from the airport 5 weeks later?

When I walked out the airport door I scanned the hundreds of taxi drivers and there he was!

He was smiling from ear to ear and wearing that familiar shirt that reads: Cultivate Interest and Curiosity. I was so filled with emotion to see my dear friend again that I could barely walk over to meet him.

For a minute I simply stopped in the midst of the flow of travelers departing the airport. I stared at him and he stared at me and we both smiled at each other and laughed. I’m sure I squealed a bit. I do that when I’m really happy to see someone.


Then I walked over to him and we shook hands and then he enveloped me in a big hug. Balinese people don’t hug (we didn’t even hug when I left for India) and I was touched that he would use my own greeting on me.

“I missed you, Kristeen!”

“Really???! You missed me?”

“Yes, I miss you. I think about you. Actually I think about your feet so much too. How are your feet? Do you have the blisters still?” he asks, looking down at my flip flops.

“Well, they come and go but right now I’m fabulous! I’m in Bali!”

“Yes, you in Bali. Welcome. Bali welcomes you. I welcome you.”

“Thanks Wayan.”

We walk to his taxi.

“Wayan! You got a new taxi!” I say looking at his new ‘old’ van.

“Yes, I need the air-con for the tourist. They no like to ride with me if I no have the air-con.”

“Yay! You have air-con!” I’m remembering the sweaty, sweaty tours of Bali in February and I’m imagining the relaxing drives we will go on in the cool comfort of his new vehicle. “The seats are super comfy too. This is a good car.”

“Thank you, Kristeen. I still paying for it, but thank you,” he gets serious and turns to me. “Your eyes very clear, Kristeen. You look good. Real good. Your eyes very clear. India was good?”

“Oh Wayan, India was intense. Bali feels like fresh air and flowers and easy and like home compared to India. Sheesh. I’ll tell you all about it later and I’ll show you pictures,” I say. “How are you Wayan? It is so good to see you, my friend!”

“I’m good. I miss you though, Kristeen. When I’m going to bed at night I not think about your face for some reason. I think about your feet. Your feet! Why I thinking about your feet of all the things? Your feet are right there in front of me before I go to sleep. I remember the foot massage I gave you and I wonder if your feet okay with the blisters and then I say ‘Go away Kristeen’s feet! I have to sleep!'”

Oh my God, this man! Can he get any more adorable??????!!!!!

I think not.

But then he does when he says this:

“Kristeen, I thinking about the first night we met. I like you right away. We talk so much, there is much to say. Like we know each other for so long but only just meeting that night. And I think about how, that first night you seem so sad but then I tell you joke and I see the exhibition of teeth.”

“The exhibition of teeth?!” I ask.

“Yes, you smile when I tell joke that first night,” he points to his pearly whites under his wide smile, “and I see the exhibition of teeth and I know you not sad. I happy you not sad.

I laugh hysterically.

“I’m not laughing at you Wayan, I’m laughing with you but oh my! Your expressions are so cute. I’ve missed them and I’ve missed you.”

We are speeding down the road and I’m happy as a clam. I’m in Bali. My Balinese friend is beside me. I’m unfurling after being in India where I felt like I had to contract and it’s only by being in my beloved Bali that I realize how very much I’ve been contracting the last 5 weeks.

India was an amazing trip. I’m glad I went but you know what? Bali is more me. It really feels like I’ve come home.

No more endless litter, no more worrying about being out after dark as a single woman, no more watching blatant abuse of animals including dogs, no more smog, no more swarms of people, no more stinky smells, etc, etc.

We continue the drive and Wayan says, “My priest missed you also. I saw him yesterday. He say that you are a good woman. He say that if you want we do an offering to the gods and he will tell you about your life, you can ask the questions and he will tell you what you want to know. You will have to buy flowers and make offering. You like to do that?”

“Yes!”

“Okay. And Saturday, big full moon ceremony. No tourists come. My priest leads. My sister-in-law will be there, the kids too. You want to come?”

“YES!”

“You have to wear the special sarong and  you can wear that nice top that my sister gave you. Or you can wear special Balinese ceremony clothes from my sister. She has many clothes. It’s very sacred ceremony.”

“Okay, I’d love to come.”

“I pick you up early in the morning. We be gone the whole day and a lot of the night too.”

“Sounds great.”

We talked about his priest and how much he has been learning from him. I remind Wayan that he is my teacher.

“I not teacher. Not yet. Someday.”

“No, now you are. I learn so much from you, Wayan,” I say.

“I the mechanic of the mind,” he says.

“Exactly! You are the mind mechanic.” We smile at each other and I picture him fiddling around in my brain with a wrench.

He turns serious.

“Kristin, I thinking a lot about love this week. I think about someone who died last week and I think we have to spend the love in the same way that we spend the money or spend the time. I have so much love in my heart. I spend it with people I love. Not hold on to it. Spend the love. I love my brother. I love my sister-in-law. I love my nieces, I love my mother. And I love you.”

“I love you too Wayan.”


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Stock photo of Hanuman Temple stairs

Stock photo of Hanuman Temple stairs

So I was all set to go to Kannur last week and I was in the rickshaw and nearly to the train station when I realized that I where I really wanted to go was straight to Hampi. I didn’t want to stop off in Kannur first.

I didn’t want to pass Go.  I didn’t want to collect my 200 dollars.  I just wanted to be in Hampi. As soon as possible.

The great thing about India (among many great things) is that train tickets are so very inexpensive so if you miss your train or decide to be spontaneous and go in a completely different direction than originally planned it is no problem.

Train tickets are usually under $20.  The only problem usually is getting on another train last minute but even that is doable by paying a $10 extra fee for an ’emergency ticket’.

I wish life changes were this easy.

So I had the rickshaw driver drop me off at the train station and I went to a travel agent in search of a train and plane ticket to Hampi.

I went to 3 travel agents and none of them knew where Hampi was.

What the heck?!

I found myself getting VERY irritated that these travel agents didn’t know destinations in their own country.

I began turning into one of those Ugly Americans that I really despise.

You know the ones I’m talking about. The ones who start talking loudly in hope that the volume of  voice will increase the clarity of communication.  This never works and I know this never works but I found myself instinctually raising my voice anyway.

I felt pretty embarrassed and ashamed afterward. 🙁

One angel of an Indian man saw me/heard me getting upset. He swept in and took me to the train station to help me book my ticket from Bangalore to Hampi (speaking Hindi is usually essential to book a train at the train station) and then we went to an Internet cafe where he helped me book my flight online to Bangalore.

Then he booked a cab to take me to the airport.

He was incredible.

So thanks to his help I arrived in Hampi the next day. When I arrived at the guesthouse that I’d stayed at before I initially felt really happy to be back in a place that was comfortable and familiar.

But then I noticed that I still wasn’t connecting with other like-minded travelers.

I met some people at my guesthouse but they just weren’t part of my tribe. They were nice people but not people I wanted to spend time with.

I found myself sinking into the black hole that I hadn’t experienced since Day One of my trip: feeling deeply alone and wondering what the heck I was doing by being on this trip.

I awoke the next morning and recalled the conversation I had with Alicia a few days before I left.

“I’m afraid I’ll feel lonely or sad on my trip,” I had said to Alicia.

“Do you feel loneliness or sad when you are at home?” she had asked.

“Sometimes, yes,” I said.

“Then you will probably feel lonely and sad when you are traveling too. Being on a trip does not make you immune to feelings of loneliness or sadness. You’ll figure out how to take care of yourself and pull yourself out of it,” she said.

I thought about what I do to pull myself out of those uncomfortable states when I’m at home:

1) Sit quietly with the uncomfortable feeling and see if it will pass by simply being with it and not avoiding it.

2) Talk to a friend and ask for support and love.

3) Exercise, especially cardio.

4) Eat healthy food.

5) Be in nature.

I realized that I was using the heat in India as an excuse not to exercise. It IS hot (over 100 degrees each day and very humid) but in the morningtime it is fairly cool (80-90 degrees) so I could exercise then if I had the discipline to get my exercise gear on and get my butt out the door of my hut.

I decided that morning to do three of the things on my list:

1)  go on a run (cardio) to the Hunuman Temple (573 stairs)

2) Visit Krishna Das at the top of the temple and ask for support

3) eat healthy

So I got on my running shoes and after giving myself a pep talk I ran through the village to the temple and walked up all those stairs.

Did I mention there are 573 of them?

I was completely drenched in sweat when I got to the top. I haven’t been that sweaty since I did Bickram yoga.  🙂

I found Krisha in the sadhu hut and asked if he could listen to me for awhile.

I poured my heart out to him and he listened with his kind eyes and attentive ears.

I told him how lonely I was feeling and how I was having a hard time connecting with other travelers.  I told him how jealous I was feeling of travelers who had a lot of vitality and how I’ve been feeling pretty mopey the past few days.

He asked good questions: How long have you been feeling this way? What do you think the other travelers are doing to give them vitality? What do you need to do in order to change the way you feel?

I told him how I have decided every day to go on a run to the temple and go up the stairs. How I need to eat healthier. How I need to find a guesthouse that feels right and people that feel like people I’d like to get to know better.

“You’ve got to purify yourself, Kristin. It takes years to purify oneself. It involves many things. You have to clean up your diet. Clean up your relationships. Clean up your worklife. Meditate. Do yoga. These are only some of the things that lead to a pure self. A pure self leads to happiness. 90% of the people out there (he points to the world beyond the temple) are not pure. They are not peaceful. Purity of body and mind leads to peace. There is no other way. 90% of the people today are thinking what they must do that day, where they most go. They give no thought to what will create peace in that day, that moment. You are lucky, Kristin. You are here. You will never forget this trip. Being here in Hampi, being in India. Use this time to purify yourself, your mind, your body,” he said, pointing to my head and body.

He continued: “I get up at 5 o’clock in the morning to do yoga. Actually first I take a sh*t. Then I do yoga.

“You take a sh*t?” I laughed.

“Yes,” he said with a serious look on his face. “Sh*t is toxic. Taking a sh*t first thing in the morning removes the toxins. If you are not sh*tting first thing in the morning you are not pure. Your body is not healthy. And you must be able to do it without coffee or tea. I don’t have tea in the morning but still I am able to sh*t first thing. The pure person does not need anything to release toxins. The body does it naturally. Then I take a shower. Shower very important in the morning. Cleaning the body, cleaning the skin creates purity. You must shower every morning. Cleaning before yoga is essential. Then I do meditation.”

He paused then continued. “Many people who stay here at the temple don’t want to shower at 5am. It’s cold. But shower is important for yoga. After yoga, meditation. Start the day out right.”

He looked at me and smiled. “You are smart. You come here. You know what you need to feel better. We are here. We are always here. You come here whenever you want. You always welcome here, okay Kristin?”

“Yes,” I said with tears in my eyes. “Thank you, Krishna.”

He then told me which guesthouse that Cynthia was staying at. Cynthia is one of the Spanish women I met last time I was in Hampi.  I decided to move to her guesthouse that day.

I could feel my energy moving in a postive direction with the exercise, the talk with Krishna, the move to the new guesthouse.

I called Barb that night and poured my heart out to her.

The rupee bill for that long phone call was very high but totally worth it.

Barb commented on how it seemed that I was out of the ‘honeymoon’ part of my trip.

I sighed and said I wanted to get back to the honeymoon.

We both laughed.

I felt her love from across the miles of sea and land.

Since that day last last week I have run every morning through the village to the temple and up the stairs. When I run through the village sometimes kids run with me and ask the typical questions that Indians always ask.

“What’s your name? Where you from? You married? How old you are?”

I answer the questions as they run for a few minutes beside me.

We smile and huff and puff together. I’m now starting to recognize the villagers as ones I’ve seen the days before. The same villagers are getting used to seeing me running in shorts and a tank top (not at all appropriate for an Indian village town but it’s the only exercise gear I’ve got).

I have breakfast with Krisha Das and Baba in the temple. Then I walk down the stairs and connect with the many wonderful people at my new guesthouse and explore Hampi with them.

Every day after breakfast Baba asks me to stay longer. He’s like a sweet Jewish mother.

The first day I came for breakfast he said, “You stay.”

“No Baba, I have to go. I need to figure out my travel plans.”

“You have lunch then you leave after lunch,” he says, his soft brown eyes smiling.

“Okay, Baba,” So I stayed for lunch that first day.

Then when I tried to leave he said, “You stay.”

“Baba, I have to go.”

“You have the chai in a few hours then you leave. It’s too hot to go down stairs now.”

“Baba! You crack me up. You are going to have me stay for dinner if I stay for chai.”

“Yes, you stay for dinner. Do the meditation and the puja and then dinner. Then you go.”

I gave him a namaste and walked down the stairs.

Each breakfast ends the same way with Baba.

“Namaste, Baba,” I say, giving him a bow and a smile.

“You stay.”

Baba is wanting me to stay the night up at the temple so I can do yoga with Krishna Das at 5am.

I may do that before I leave although the thought of sleeping outdoors freaks me out. I found a dead scorpion in front of my hut this morning and a large spider in the bathroom a couple of days ago. Eeek.

On my way back from the temple this morning I saw a camel loping across the field to my left (!) and horses and water buffalo galloping beside  the camel.

The horses and buffalo looked so very tiny next to the huge camel. I continue to be amazed on a daily basis by what I see here in India.

According to locals the animals belong to Peter from Denmark. He is a meditation teacher and tomorrow I may try to find his house.

“Just ask the rickshaw driver ‘where is Peter’s land?’ Rickshaw driver will take you,” said a local man a couple of days ago.

Tomorrow I will do that. Find Peter and his land.

Tonight at the guesthouse me and the other guesthouse residents will be in the kitchen cooking meals from around the world. The Italians will cook pasta. The Iranian woman will cook an Iranian dish. The Germans will make some kind of German dish. I will make salad. 🙂

We will make and eat a community meal together.

Things are looking up…

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Adrift

by Kristin Morrison on March 10, 2010

in Being in the Unknown,India,Letting Go,Taking A Risk,Travel

Stock photo of Kerala houseboat

Stock photo of Kerala houseboat

After an 18-hour journey by train and then plane and then train again I arrived in Kochi, India a few of days ago.

I was delighted to find a hotel that had a bathtub.

I squealed with joy when I saw it.

It was the first bathtub I’ve seen in India.

Even though it was over 100 degrees outside (and very humid) I took a hot bath because I’ve missed soaking in hot water.  Showers in India rarely have hot (or even warm) water…at least in the places I’ve been staying at.

The first day in Kochi I simply adjusted to a new environment.

The next day  I noticed that I felt a bit lost. I wasn’t ‘clicking’ with Kochi. To me it is a noisy, dirty, expensive city and I decided to get the heck out of there. So three days later I packed up and headed to the backwater town of Alleppey.

Unfortunately I’ve been here for 2 days and have not clicked with this place either.

It’s making me feel a bit homesick and lonesome, this not clicking with a town twice in a row.

Up until now this trip has been mostly an ease-filled experience as far as the places I’ve been have gone.

Even Pune, as stinky and dirty as it was, was filled with people that I met who really made the experience wonderful.

And that, I’m realizing as I’m writing this, is exactly the issue that I’m experiencing right now.

In the past two towns I’ve stayed at there was no ‘meeting point’ to meet other travelers within the guesthouse or hotel.

In all the other places I’ve stayed I have experienced a spot at my accommodation where I would meet people (usually the accommodation restaurant or on a common balcony where we would chat).

The only place I didn’t experience this was in one place I stayed in Bali but I had met Wayan the taxi driver who was a touchstone for me while I was there.

The past couple of days I spent some time in Alleppey searching for a guesthouse where I could meet fellow travelers and I just haven’t found any place that feels ‘right’.

In fact, I’ve barely seen any tourists at all in this town.  Not seeing tourists is usually my idea of a dream trip but…in Alleppey whenever I walk into town I stick out like a sore thumb and get gawked at.

It’s getting a bit old and I’m getting a bit cranky by not having found a spot that felt as ‘homey’ as Hampi and the other spots I’ve been to so far.

I’m realizing that just like in the Bay Area it is my people that make my town ‘homey’.

And when I am traveling I’ve got to have access to people that I can meet and connect with otherwise I just need to move on to find my travel peeps. 🙂

Today I was so confused. It had taken a lot of time, energy and money to get me to here to Alleppey from Hampi and all I wanted to do was to go back to Hampi!

I talked it over with the Indian travel agent and we realized that it was best (cheaper and more time-saving) for me to head north to Kannur and then head east to Hampi after exploring Kannur.

So I’m taking a risk by going to a 3rd town that might not feel right but at least I’ll be a little closer to Hampi.

I have less than 2 weeks left in India so I also have to start thinking about threading my way to Pune for my flight back to Bali on March 23.

On a different note,  last night I did something I really wanted to do which was take an overnight houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala.

The houseboat ride was wonderful even though, as I wrote above, I have been feeling a bit unmoored.

On the ship there was me, the captain and a chef. Their names were so difficult to pronounce that I asked if it was okay if I call them Captain and Captain Cook.  Captain Cook  was part chef, part captain.

They said that was fine.

The Captain had a real mischievous side to him. We had a lot of fun. At one point he let me drive the houseboat. (Which reminds me.. .a few days ago I had a rickshaw driver let me drive a rickshaw too–I’m getting the real Indian experience!)

We also docked the boat and went swimming. After I got out from swimming the Captain kept egging me on from the water, “You go swimming again.”

I said no, no, no and then he finally wore me down and I dived in.

And then I egged him on to swim across the channel with me.

He swam until he reached the middle and then he said, “No, no more swimming.”

(Indian people rarely swim in water that is deep enough to go over their head.)

“You are getting a taste of your own medicine, egging me on, come on!” I laughed, swimming ahead.

But he wouldn’t follow me so I turned around.

The backwaters of Kerala were filled with the sounds of birds, fish plopping out of the warm water and diving back in, and women beating their clothes to submission on the river rocks in front of their homes.

It’s mesmerizing to watch. They hold one end and whack! whack! whack! against a smooth rock in front of them. Then they lather the item with soap and knead it like bread dough and then whack! whack! whack! and then rinse in the river water (uggh, the river water is disgusting, can’t believe I swam in it).

The men fish from the rocks with large nets that they fan out in front of them into the water and then pull back quickly and look to see if they have caught anything.  If not, back goes the fan. And on and on until they catch something.

The women use sticks of bamboo to fish with. They plop the line in quickly and then pull it out just as quickly. I’ve never seen a fish on the line from the  quick pull in and out of the fishing line.

I feel like saying, ‘Uh, lady, you might want to give it some time” but they probably know something I don’t as the Keralans have been fishing on the banks of the backwater for centuries and I’ve never fished on the banks of the backwater so what do I know?  🙂

After swimming the Captain Cook made us a delicious dinner of vegetable curry, dahl, curd, and chipatti.

We sat and ate and spoke to each other in broken English (when I’m talking to Indians I can’t help but speak broken English back at them, I’m like a chameleon that way).

When we were finished with dinner Captain turned to me and said, “And now, you dance!”

“No, I’m not dancing, Captain,” I laugh.

“Yes, you dance,” he orders, smiling a toothy white grin.

“No.”

“Yes. Dance. Here,” he points to the spot between the table and the bow of the boat.

“Showing me where to dance will not make me dance. You dance,” I smile.

“No you dance American dance.”

This goes back and forth for about 5 minutes. Finally he changes and says, “You sing then. Sing American song!”

Oh brother. Dancing on command is my least favorite thing, singing is a close second.

After much no, yes, no, yes, no, yes (he yes, me no) I finally sang Happy Birthday. And then we sang happy birthday to each of us (me, Captain, Captain Cook.

After we sang Happy Birthday the captain burst into a Hindi song.

It was incredible.

Even though I couldn’t understand a word of it, there was so much emotion in his voice. His eyes crinkled up and he belted it out.

His song went on for at least 5 minutes.

After he was done we clapped.

Then he turned to me and said, “You sing.”

And I did.

I sang Amazing Grace and I remembered most of the lines and I belted it out with such a lusty, deep, heartfelt voice that I have never heard come out of my throat before.

It felt great. And, not to brag but I think it sounded great too.

Unfortunately I don’t think I can repeat it.  It was one of those in-the-moment things.

Captain and Captain Cook applauded wildly.

Then Captain belted out another song.

And then I went to bed on the boat which was pretty cool as I love the movement of the Kerala backwaters. It lulled me to sleep.

This morning when I got off I felt like the earth was moving. Haven’t felt that sensation in awhile.

So even though I’ve been feeling a bit adrift and unmoored by no ‘right’ spot these last few days I have had moments of pure joy which have helped get me through this time.

Tomorrow I’m off to Kannur (home of the trance dancers; they go into a trance and can perform super human feats like rolling around on hot coals for an hour or dancing around with a crown that is as tall and heavy as a coconut tree!) I’m hoping to see them while I’m there.

After that I’m off to Hampi again unless I find another spot that I’m drawn to.

Thanks for being there everyone! I realize that writing this blog and knowing you are all reading it has helped keep me feeling connected when I’m feeling disconnected. 🙂

PS. I’m excited to upload pictures when I get to Bali. I’ve been having to upload stock photos of places which feels so impersonal.

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573 Steps

by Kristin Morrison on March 5, 2010

in Adventure,Contentment,India,Life as a Grand Adventure

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I woke up feeling so deeply content today.

Even the fact that I’ve spent nearly three hours typing this blog post only to have it be half tiny, tiny font that makes it challenging to read has not destroyed my contentment.

(If you adjust your view button to a larger font size that will help. I’ve tried to adjust it for 30 minutes and I must get ready to catch my train so unfortunately I can’t work on adjusting the size anymore.)

I’m finding myself not wanting to come home which is probably a good thing given that I’m not coming home for 5 weeks.

I’m meeting lots of people who are traveling for 6, 12, 24 months! Finding myself longing to be gone that long too. But this is a perfect dipping my toe in the water for perhaps a longer journey at some point in the near future….


I’ve had one incredible adventure after another. There is something so potent about opening up to the unknown of travel that has created such rich experiences for me so far.

Not all has been bliss (food poisoning twice, blisters on the feet which have made walking challenging and beloved exercise has been out of the question, sunburn that turned into boil-type blisters, the bombing in Pune, beds as hard as rocks (and pillows only a little softer) but… I can’t recall a time in my life when I felt as deeply fulfilled and content.

I feel so connected to myself. I’m so grateful I’m traveling alone and getting this experience of the deep and utter connection and confidence within myself. Plus it is enabling me to meet lots of people in a way that just wouldn’t be possible were I traveling with a partner or even a friend.

I’ve been spending about $200-300 a week the past couple of weeks and living pretty well. It’s incredible how little money can be spent here while still living pretty high on the hog.  Bali is much more expensive than India so it’s good that I’m not spending much in India (except for the Pune ashram which was SUPER expensive…)

I arrived in Hampi 3 days ago and tonight am heading to Kerala (home of Ayurveda, Amma and the beautiful backwaters which can only be journeyed by boat).

The first night I arrived I simply enjoyed the lush beauty of the rice fields and mountainous rock formations that must be experienced first-hand to be fully enjoyed. The contrast of the lush, lush green with the sandy-colored boulder mountains is otherworldly.

I awoke the next morning wondering what I would do. There were bikes for rent and so I rented one for 1 dollar and rode the rickety old thing down the village dirt road.

Thousand year old ruins were on each side of the road with water buffalo bathing in the river to the left. A man was killing noisy squawking chickens to the right of me.

It was like stepping back hundreds of years in time except that I was on a bike.

I rode on and on, past children rolling circles with sticks, past barking dogs, past rickshaws parked on the side of the road, past women dressed in colorful saris who were making lunch over a fire.

I spotted a white building perched on the very tip top of a mountain to my left.

I couldn’t figure out if it was a house or ???

I kept riding until I came to a road with a coconut stand on the side. I could see the white building clearly from that road.

“Is that a house?” I asked the coconut seller.

“That is temple. Very holy temple. Hanuman Temple.”

“Can I go see it?” I asked.

“Yes, you go see now. Many steps. It’s hot. You want coconut? Refreshing for the journey to temple.”

“Maybe on the way back.Can you watch my bike?”

“I watch your bike. You go temple.”

The coconut seller wasn’t kidding when he said many steps. 573 steps total.

But oh, what a view.

When I got to the top I just stood, huffing and puffing and stared at the view below.

Before I left Goa to go to Hampi a fellow traveler had told me that she half expected dinosaurs to be walking around Hampi. It has that prehistoric look and feel to it.

I walked inside the temple and stood before the altar. Instinctively I dropped to my knees and put my bowed hands to my head. I’ve never done that in a temple before but this temple radiated holiness and power.

Then I wandered around to the opposite end of the mountain top and saw a building that I thought was a restroom.

I walked into it but actually it was a sadhu hut.

“Come in, come in,” said a man wrapped only in a sarong.

“Sit,” he gently commanded.

“Where you from?” he asked.

“America.”

“You do what in America?” he asked.

“I’m a business owner,” I said.

“Oh, you very rich then. Business owner. Rich.”

“No not really, I do okay. Not what you would call rich though,” I replied.

“America very rich. India not so rich. But India rich in people. In America it is the looking after oneself only. In India it is the rich connection with other peoples. You know what I’m talking about?”

“Yes, I know exactly what you are talking about,” I agreed.

“I’m Krishna Das. You?”

“Kristin.”

“You notice I’m not Indian, Kristin?” Krishna asked.

“Yes, actually I did notice. Where are you from?”

“Malaysia. I have an experience on January one, year two thousand and it change my life. One day I wake up and I just different.”

“What brought you to India?” I ask.

“The same thing that brought you to India, Kristin. It is my destiny. Whatever is destiny must happen.”

We look at each other and smile, both of us feeling the lines of destiny connecting us in that moment.

I felt my eyes involuntarily tear up.

“You want you can stay here. Live at temple. You eat with us, you meditate with us. Do puja with us. No problem,” he smiled. “Come. You meet girls.”

And I followed him around the back of the sadhu hut where he introduced me to the only other people that had been invited to stay at the temple: two Spanish women.

So I spent two days there. I would stay at my guesthouse at night and get a rickshaw to take me to the base of the temple early in the morning and ascend the 573 steps that led to the Hanuman Temple. Monkeys would greet me at the top as would the sunrise.

We would do puja in the morning in the temple. The big Baba (guru) who actually lived in the temple would bless the altar with candles, incense and chants (the same altar that I’d instinctively bowed down to upon my arrival).

At the same time we would all be instructed to ring bells, drums, gongs as loud as we possible could.

It was outrageous, loud, and always brought a big, broad smile to my face. I just couldn’t help myself from smiling.

Being there felt so natural and right.

Then after puja we would eat breakfast (oh my the food was the best I have ever tasted).

Then we would meditate.

Then we would lie around in the shade and keep cool.

Then lunch.

Then we would meditate.

Then do puja again.

Then dinner.

And then I’d catch my rickshaw at the bottom of the 573 steps at 10pm that night.

Last night was my last night as I’m leaving for Kerala today.

Twice yesterday Baba invited me to stay the night on the mountain and sleep outside next to the Spanish girls and leave the next day.  He has such kind eyes and such a gentle, humble spirit.

“You stay tonight. You wake up with us. You do the meditation and puja and breakfast. Then you leave.”

I wanted to stay but I also found myself wanting to go. To sleep in my guesthouse and sleep in.

It was a touch decision, especially with Baba personally asking me.It was an honor.

I had to really explore what I wanted (this trip has been so much about that–what do I really want?) and when I got quiet I realized I did want to go ‘home’ and have a leisurely morning in the flatland.

But I told him that I will be back.

“Next year?” he asked.

“Maybe next year. Maybe year after. Will you still be here Baba?” I asked.

“Yes, I still be here. You come back, ” he said.

I will.



Stock photo of Hanuman Temple-look way up at the top and you can see it.

Stock photo of Hanuman Temple-look way up at the top and you can see it.







stock photo of Hanuman Temple

stock photo of Hanuman Temple

















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Trapped in Paradise

by Kristin Morrison on February 27, 2010

in Being in the Unknown,India,Starting Something New,Travel

Arambol Beach at Sunset

Arambol Beach at Sunset

I’ve been on a beach in Goa for a week now and up until now have been unable to escape.

But before I write about that I must write about my journey to this Goan beach.

Shantam from the ashram offered to store my mediation robes in case I return to the Pune ashram and Swaraj, an Indian man I also met at the ashram stopped at my hotel as I was packing up. He surprised me with flowers (so sweet!) and whisked me away in a rickshaw to the railway station.

The train was late so we had plenty of time to chat and say goodbye.

I met some really wonderful people on the train. A woman who lives in Mumbai who spoke  impeccable English. Her aunt leaned into the window before we left and asked if I wanted any food before the train left the station.

So kind.

Actually all of the people in my train compartment were really lovely people.

I met a cute 14-year-old girl who wanted to badly to communicate with me (and I her) but there was that minor detail of the language barrier.  She showed me all her jewelry and lip gloss.  I showed her my one lipstick. She wanted a picture of me but all I had was my ashram card and I would need that if I decided to return to Pune. So I had someone take a picture of the two of us. I got her address to mail it to her but darn! I lost my notebook that she had written it in. 🙁

Sleeping on a 3-Tier (6 person) No A/C train is something I will probably not sign up for again. The bunks were crowded and hard.  No sheets, blankets or pillows provided and I didn’t have any place to store any in my backpack for the train journey. Also chai wallahs came walking around at 4am saying, “Chai, Chai!”

Over and over. Until 7am.

I love Chai but I love sleep more. RRRRRRRRRRR.

Next time I’ll reserve a 2-tier (4 person) A/C seat. I’ve heard that is a much more comfortable way to travel by train.

A woman named Judy (who I met yesterday in Goa) told me that everything you need you get in India.

In the midst of the incredible chaos that surrounds India is an (according to her and I think she’s right) orchestra of perfect order.

Judy said last night, “You don’t always get what you want in India but you always get what you need.”

I experienced this when I was on the train to Goa. A couple overheard me talking to the woman from Mumbai about which stop I should get off at to go to Arambol Beach.  She told my stop was about an hour from the next train stop.

This couple overheard her and said, “She’s wrong. We live in Arambol. Come with us and we can share taxi fare.”

I did and thank God I did. If I had gotten off at the other stop I would have had to take 3 different buses to get to Arambol instead of one taxi with this couple.

I got to Arambol Beach in Goa and wow.

What a relief to be on the Arabian Sea with waves crashing against the beautiful beach and warm water to swim in.

It was heaven.

For a few days.

But then I decided I wanted to leave Goa and all the train tickets out of Goa were booked. The travel agents didn’t know when there would be a seat going to anywhere else in India.

What?! I’m stuck in Goa?!

Four days ago the last words I wrote in my journal were:

Since I can’t leave Goa for a few days I want to rest for the next three days.

Even though I was in one of the most restful places on Earth (Goa is pretty darn restful), I was having such a hard time simply doing nothing. I would set out to do nothing but I would end having a dinner date with someone I met on the beach or near my hut or I would go shopping or I would spend time on the Internet catching up with friends and family.

I couldn’t just do nothing.

Do nothing.

That doesn’t really make sense does it?

It’s more like I couldn’t nothing.

So the day after I found out it would be awhile before I could leave Goa, and the day after I wrote those words in my journal, I got major food poisoning.

Much worse than the time in Bali.

By 1:00pm I was alternately shivering and sweating in my bed. It felt like someone had put a fleece blanket around me and insulated me from sounds, sensations (other than sweating and shivering) and emotions. I couldn’t think or feel.  I could only shake and shiver and sweat.

It was so strange. And in a strange way it was soooo restful.

I couldn’t get up unless I absolutely had to.

I didn’t want to eat.

I didn’t want to drink.

I didn’t want to do anything but rest.

And rest I did.

For three days.

Just like I had written in my journal: I want to rest for the next three days.

And each day I got progressively better.

Today is the 4th day and I’m up and about.

Still not eating too much.

But feeling much, much better. And really very rested.

And I got a train ticket out of Goa today. It leaves on Tuesday for Hampi.

And I feel like doing things again since I’m so well rested.

Tonight I will go to the Night Market (entertainment, good food, shopping) with an assortment of nice people I met who are staying near my beach shack.

Tomorrow is something called Holy Day where you get splashed with different colored paint that symbolize different things. It’s a festival celebrating life. You are supposed to wear clothes you don’t care about when you go into town or on the beach because people will throw colored paint at you.

It sounds messy but fun. 🙂

And then Monday I am determined to swim with the dolphins. I still haven’t gotten around to that yet.

Then Tuesday I leave for a new destination.

And a new adventure.

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